How to Make Concrete Pavers: DIY Molds & the Best Concrete Mix

This guide covers the full process: choosing molds, mixing concrete, casting, curing, and setting pavers in a sand bed. For the underlying math on how much concrete you'll need, the calculator below handles it.

What You Need

Materials

Tools

• Wheelbarrow or mixing tub
• Concrete hoe or drill with paddle mixer
• Trowel
• Level
• Rubber mallet
• Screed board (straight 2×4)

Choosing Molds

Pre-made plastic paver molds are available at home improvement stores and online for $5–25 each. They come in squares, rectangles, hexagons, and decorative brick patterns. Most are reusable 20–50 times.

Size consideration: Standard manufactured pavers are 4×8 inches (about 0.05 cubic feet at 2.5" thick). DIY pavers at 12×12 inches are more practical to cast in quantity at home — fewer mold fills to hit the same square footage.

How to Make DIY Concrete Paver Molds

A wood mold costs almost nothing and lets you pick any size. Build it so the cell depth equals your paver thickness: a 2x2 is only 1.5 inches tall, below the 2-inch pedestrian minimum, so rip strips 2 inches tall from a 2x4 instead.

1. Cut a base from 3/4-inch plywood, about 30x30 inches for a 2x2 grid of 12x12 pavers
2. Rip border strips 2 inches tall from 2x4 lumber (3.5 inches wide, so one rip per board)
3. Screw the outer frame to the base, then screw in the divider strips to form 12x12-inch cells; screws, not glue, so you can take it apart if a paver sticks
4. Seal the wood with a coat of paint, polyurethane, or packing tape so it doesn't wick water out of the mix
5. Coat with form release or cooking spray before every pour

For a faster no-base version, build only the grid frame, set it on plastic sheeting, fill it, and lift it off after 24 hours. It is the same idea as the lift-off molds sold for "cast in place" walkways.

Best Concrete for Paver Molds

Any bagged concrete will make a paver; the right one depends on the mold detail and paver thickness. Strength figures are the manufacturers' 28-day ratings.

Why thickness matters for the mix: ACI 318 limits coarse aggregate to one-third of a slab's depth, so the larger stones in standard mix become a weak point as pavers get thinner. Below about 1.5 inches, or in molds with fine texture, switch to sand/topping mix. For brand-by-brand details, see Quikrete vs Sakrete vs generic.

How Much Concrete Do You Need?

Calculate your patio square footage, then add 10% for waste. Use this quick table for 12×12 pavers at 2-inch thickness:

Open the full Concrete Slab Calculator →

Step-by-Step: Casting Pavers

Step 1: Prepare Molds

Coat the interior of each mold with cooking spray or form release oil. Set molds on a flat, level surface — a sheet of plywood or your driveway works well. The bottom of the mold forms the visible face of the paver, so the surface you pour onto matters.

Step 2: Mix Concrete

Add water to the wheelbarrow first, then add dry mix. Blend until uniform and lump-free. Target a stiff consistency — the mix should hold shape when squeezed and not run off a shovel.

For colored pavers: Add dry pigment to the dry mix and blend thoroughly before adding water. This ensures even distribution. See the colored concrete guide for color ratios and options.

For the correct water-cement ratio that balances workability with strength, see our concrete water ratio guide.

Step 3: Fill Molds

Scoop concrete into each mold and press into corners with a trowel. Fill in two layers, tamping down each layer. Slightly overfill the mold, then screed the top flat with a straight board.

Tap the sides of the mold with your hand or a rubber mallet to release trapped air bubbles.

Step 4: Cure the Pavers

Cover filled molds immediately with plastic sheeting. After 24 hours, carefully flip each mold over and tap the back to release the paver. Set released pavers face-side up on a flat surface and cover again with plastic.

Cure for 7 full days before setting, with occasional misting if weather is hot or dry. Full compressive strength is reached at 28 days.

Step 5: Prepare the Setting Bed

For a patio or path, prepare the base before setting pavers:

1. Excavate about 7 inches below finished height for 2-inch pavers (4 in base + 1 in sand + 2 in paver)
2. Add 4 inches of compacted gravel base (crusher run / paver base), 4-6 inches on clay or poorly draining soil
3. Add 1 inch of coarse sand, screeded flat and level

See our concrete subgrade preparation guide for base compaction details — a solid base prevents pavers from settling or rocking.

Step 6: Set the Pavers

Lay pavers on the sand bed with 1/4-inch gaps between them. Use a level to check each paver and tap into place with a rubber mallet. Fill gaps with polymeric sand (sand with a binding agent) and sweep into joints. Tamp lightly and mist with water to activate the binder.

Key Specs at a Glance

Common Mistakes

Releasing molds too early. Pavers released before 24 hours often crack at corners and edges. Patience saves pavers.

Setting in soil instead of sand. Placing pavers directly on soil leads to uneven settling and tipping. A proper sand bed is what keeps a DIY patio looking level after years of use.

Inconsistent mix consistency. Batching concrete with slightly different water amounts batch to batch causes color variation across pavers. Mix one batch at a time and keep measurements consistent.

Related Guides

• DIY Concrete Stepping Stones — Similar casting process for garden paths
• Concrete Subgrade Preparation — How to properly prepare the base before laying
• Stamped Concrete Guide — Texture and pattern options for a finished surface