Complete Guide to Concrete for DIY Projects

Concrete work is absolutely achievable for homeowners willing to plan carefully and respect the material's demands. This guide covers everything you need to successfully complete a concrete project—from understanding what concrete actually is, to calculating quantities, to finishing techniques that produce professional results.

The secret to successful DIY concrete isn't strength or special skills—it's preparation. Get your planning right, and the pour itself becomes the easy part.

Table of Contents

1. What Concrete Is and How It Works
2. Types of Concrete and When to Use Each
3. Calculating How Much Concrete You Need
4. Bagged vs Ready-Mix Concrete
5. Essential Tools and Materials
6. Site Preparation
7. Pouring and Finishing Techniques
8. Curing Requirements
9. Common Mistakes to Avoid
10. When to DIY vs Hire a Professional
11. Cost Overview

What Concrete Is and How It Works

Concrete isn't complicated, but understanding it prevents expensive mistakes.

Concrete is a mixture of three components:

• Cement (10-15%): The binding agent—usually Portland cement
• Aggregates (60-75%): Sand (fine) and gravel (coarse) that provide bulk and strength
• Water (15-20%): Triggers the chemical reaction that hardens concrete

The standard mix ratio is approximately 1:2:3—one part cement, two parts sand, three parts gravel. When you buy bagged concrete mix, these proportions are already blended. You just add water.

Critical concept: Concrete doesn't "dry"—it cures through a chemical reaction called hydration. The water chemically bonds with cement to form hard calcium silicate crystals. This is why keeping concrete moist during curing actually makes it stronger, and why adding too much water weakens the final product.

For a deeper dive into fundamentals, see our concrete basics guide.

Types of Concrete and When to Use Each

Not all concrete is the same. Choosing the right type matters:

Type	PSI Rating	Best For
Standard mix	3,000-4,000	Patios, sidewalks, most residential
High-strength	5,000+	Driveways, footings, structural
Fast-setting	4,000	Fence posts, repairs, cold weather
Crack-resistant	4,000	Large slabs, areas with soil movement

PSI (pounds per square inch) measures compressive strength. For most residential projects, 3,000-4,000 PSI handles the job. Driveways and structural applications benefit from 4,000-5,000 PSI.

Rule of thumb: Standard mix for patios and sidewalks. High-strength for anything supporting vehicles or structural loads.

Calculating How Much Concrete You Need

Getting quantities right prevents the nightmare of running short mid-pour—or wasting money on excess material.

The basic formula:

Length (ft) × Width (ft) × Thickness (ft) ÷ 27 = Cubic Yards

Example: 10×10 patio at 4 inches thick

1. Convert thickness: 4 inches ÷ 12 = 0.333 feet
2. Calculate volume: 10 × 10 × 0.333 = 33.3 cubic feet
3. Convert to yards: 33.3 ÷ 27 = 1.23 cubic yards
4. Add 10% buffer: 1.23 × 1.10 = 1.35 cubic yards

Always add 10% for waste, uneven ground, and spillage. Running short is far worse than having a little extra.

Our concrete calculator handles all this math automatically, including bag conversions. For detailed calculation methods, see how to calculate concrete or how much concrete do I need.

Bagged vs Ready-Mix Concrete

Your project size determines which makes sense:

Project Size	Cubic Yards	Best Choice
Under 0.5 yards	Under 25 bags	Bagged
0.5-1.5 yards	25-70 bags	Either
Over 1.5 yards	70+ bags	Ready-mix

Bagged concrete (Quikrete, Sakrete, store brands):

• No minimum order
• Work at your own pace
• Costs more per yard (~$290/yard for 80-lb bags)
• Labor-intensive (one person: 20-30 bags/day max)

Ready-mix delivery:

• Cheaper per yard ($125-175)
• Consistent, factory-mixed quality
• Time pressure (60-90 minutes to pour and finish)
• Minimum orders (usually 1 yard) plus delivery fees

The break-even point is around 1-1.5 cubic yards. Below that, bags often cost less total. Above that, ready-mix saves money and enormous labor.

For detailed comparison, see how many bags of concrete.

Essential Tools and Materials

For Any Concrete Project

• Safety gear: Gloves, safety glasses, long sleeves (concrete burns skin)
• Measuring tools: Tape measure, level, string line
• Mixing tools: Wheelbarrow or mixing tub, hoe or shovel, water source
• Forms: 2×4 lumber, stakes, screws
• Finishing tools: Screed board, bull float, hand float, edger, groover

For Larger Projects (Add)

• Concrete mixer rental ($50-75/day)
• Plate compactor rental ($50-100/day)
• Extra wheelbarrows
• Additional helpers (concrete waits for no one)

Materials Checklist

• ☐ Concrete (bagged or ready-mix scheduled)
• ☐ Gravel for base (4-6 inches)
• ☐ Form lumber and stakes
• ☐ Wire mesh or rebar (if needed)
• ☐ Rebar chairs/supports
• ☐ Concrete sealer (optional, for after curing)

Site Preparation

Proper prep prevents 90% of concrete failures. Don't rush this.

Step 1: Excavate

Dig to accommodate your gravel base plus concrete thickness. For a 4" slab with 4" gravel base, excavate 8" total.

Step 2: Install Gravel Base

Add 4-6 inches of compacted gravel (3/4" crushed stone or road base). Compact in 2-inch layers using a plate compactor. This provides drainage and prevents settling.

For base requirements, see do I need gravel under concrete.

Step 3: Build Forms

Set form boards (typically 2×4s) to the exact height of your finished slab. Stake firmly every 2-3 feet. Check level, but include slight slope (1/8" per foot) for drainage away from structures.

Step 4: Add Reinforcement

For patios and sidewalks, 6×6 wire mesh is typically sufficient. For driveways and structural applications, use rebar. Support reinforcement on chairs so it sits at mid-depth, not on the ground.

See when to use rebar for project-specific guidance.

Pouring and Finishing Techniques

Once you start, the clock is ticking. Have everything ready before mixing or before the truck arrives.

The Pour

1. Start in the far corner and work toward your exit
2. Spread concrete to slightly above form height
3. Work quickly but don't rush—you have 30-60 minutes depending on temperature

Screeding (Leveling)

1. Use a straight 2×4 (screed board) spanning the forms
2. Pull across the surface in a sawing motion
3. Keep screed tilted slightly forward
4. Fill low spots and re-screed as needed

Floating

1. Bull float immediately after screeding—push away, pull back flat
2. This brings "cream" (cement paste) to the surface
3. Creates a smooth base for finishing

Finishing

1. Wait for bleed water to evaporate (surface looks matte, not shiny)
2. Edge along forms with edging tool for rounded edges
3. Groove control joints every 8-10 feet (or slab length ÷ 3)
4. Broom finish for texture and traction (drag broom across surface)

Timing Is Everything

• Float too early = weak surface
• Float too late = unworkable concrete
• Watch for bleed water to disappear before hand finishing

For weather considerations, see best time to pour concrete.

Curing Requirements

Proper curing can increase concrete strength by 50%. Don't skip this.

Milestone	Timeframe	What You Can Do
Initial set	24-48 hours	Remove forms, light touch OK
Walk on	24-48 hours	Foot traffic only
Light use	7 days	~70% strength
Drive on	28 days	Full strength

Curing best practices:

• Keep concrete moist for 7 days (spray 2-3× daily or cover with plastic)
• Avoid extreme temperatures during initial cure
• Don't seal or paint until fully cured

The 28-day rule is real. Driving on a driveway at 7 days risks permanent damage. Patience costs nothing; repairs cost thousands.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Planning Mistakes

• Ordering too little: Always add 10% buffer
• Wrong thickness: 4" for patios, 5-6" for driveways—see how thick should concrete be
• Skipping the base: Gravel isn't optional

Mixing Mistakes

• Too much water: Makes pouring easier but permanently weakens concrete
• Inconsistent batches: Each batch should match consistency
• Mixing too much at once: Only mix what you can place in 15-20 minutes

Pouring Mistakes

• Rushing the finish: Wait for bleed water to evaporate
• Forgetting control joints: Concrete will crack—control joints determine where
• Not having enough help: Ready-mix waits for no one

Curing Mistakes

• Letting it dry out: Keep moist for first 7 days
• Using too early: Especially driveways—wait 28 days

For thickness-specific guidance, see 4 vs 6 inch concrete.

When to DIY vs Hire a Professional

Be honest about your project and capabilities:

DIY-Friendly Projects

• Patios under 200 sqft
• Sidewalk sections
• Shed pads
• Post footings
• Simple rectangular shapes

Consider Hiring a Pro

• Driveways (size, thickness, and stakes are higher)
• Any project over 300 sqft
• Decorative finishes (stamped, colored)
• Structural applications (foundations, footings)
• Complex shapes or slopes

The math: A 12×12 patio costs roughly $500 DIY vs $1,500 professional. You save $1,000 but invest 8-12 hours of hard labor plus risk. For many, that's worthwhile. For a 20×40 driveway, the equation shifts—professional crews have the manpower and experience to handle large pours that would overwhelm most DIYers.

For detailed cost comparison, see DIY vs contractor.

Cost Overview

Material Costs

Item	Cost
Ready-mix concrete	$125-175 per cubic yard
Bagged concrete (80-lb)	$6-7 per bag (~$290/yard)
Gravel base	$25-50 per cubic yard
Wire mesh	$0.15-0.25 per sqft
Rebar (#4)	$0.50-0.75 per linear foot
Form lumber	$5-8 per 8-ft 2×4

Project Cost Examples

10×10 patio (DIY):

• Concrete (1.4 yards): ~$200
• Gravel, forms, mesh: ~$100
• Tool rental: ~$75
• Total: ~$375

10×10 patio (Professional):

• Installed price: 100 sqft × $8-12 = $800-1,200

For detailed pricing, see concrete cost per yard or use our concrete cost calculator.

Your Project Checklist

Week Before

• ☐ Calculate concrete needed (use calculator)
• ☐ Order materials or schedule delivery
• ☐ Check weather forecast
• ☐ Gather tools
• ☐ Recruit helpers for pour day

Day Before

• ☐ Complete excavation
• ☐ Install and compact gravel base
• ☐ Set and level forms
• ☐ Install reinforcement
• ☐ Verify all tools and materials ready

Pour Day

• ☐ Final form check
• ☐ Wet forms and base (prevents water absorption)
• ☐ Mix/receive concrete
• ☐ Pour, screed, float
• ☐ Wait for bleed water
• ☐ Edge, groove, finish
• ☐ Begin curing immediately

After Pour

• ☐ Keep moist for 7 days
• ☐ Remove forms at 24-48 hours
• ☐ No foot traffic for 24-48 hours
• ☐ No vehicles for 28 days

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does a concrete project cost?

DIY projects typically cost $3-6 per square foot for materials (concrete, gravel, forms, reinforcement). Professional installation runs $6-15 per square foot depending on finish type and complexity. A basic 10×10 patio costs roughly $375 DIY or $800-1,200 professional. Use our cost calculator for specific estimates.

Can a beginner pour concrete?

Yes, with proper preparation. Small projects (under 150 sqft) with simple rectangular shapes are achievable for motivated beginners. Success depends more on planning than skill—get your forms right, your quantities calculated, and your helpers lined up. Start with something small like a shed pad before tackling a driveway.

How long does concrete take to fully cure?

Concrete reaches approximately 70% strength at 7 days and full design strength at 28 days. You can walk on it after 24-48 hours, but don't drive on driveways until 28 days minimum. Curing continues slowly for months, but 28 days is the standard benchmark for full strength.

What's the difference between concrete and cement?

Cement is an ingredient IN concrete—it's the powder that acts as the binding agent. Concrete is the finished product: cement + sand + gravel + water. Think of it like flour and bread: flour is an ingredient in bread, but you wouldn't call bread "flour." When you buy bags at the store, look for "concrete mix," not "cement."

How thick should concrete be for a patio or driveway?

Patios need 4 inches (foot traffic only). Driveways need 5-6 inches minimum (vehicle weight requires more). Using 4 inches for a driveway is a common mistake that leads to cracking within a few years. See our thickness guide for all project types.

Do I need a permit to pour concrete?

It depends on your location and project. Small patio slabs typically don't require permits. Driveways, anything near property lines, or projects affecting drainage often do. Foundations and structural work almost always require permits. Check with your local building department—unpermitted work can create problems when selling your home.

Next Steps

Ready to plan your project? Start here:

1. Calculate quantities: Concrete Calculator
2. Estimate costs: Cost Calculator
3. Project-specific guides:
   • Complete Driveway Guide
   • Complete Patio Guide
4. Browse all resources: Concrete Guides Hub