How to Finish Concrete (Tools & Techniques)
Finishing is where concrete work becomes craftsmanship—and where most DIY projects go wrong. The challenge isn't technique; it's timing. Every finishing step has a narrow window. Start too early, you trap water and weaken the surface. Start too late, the concrete won't respond to your tools.
How to Finish Concrete (Tools & Techniques)
Finishing is where concrete work becomes craftsmanship—and where most DIY projects go wrong. The challenge isn't technique; it's timing. Every finishing step has a narrow window. Start too early, you trap water and weaken the surface. Start too late, the concrete won't respond to your tools.
This guide breaks down each finishing stage, the tools you need, and the timing cues that tell you when to move to the next step. Master these, and you'll produce professional-looking results.
The Finishing Stages (In Order)
Concrete finishing follows a strict sequence:
| Stage | When | Tool | Purpose |
|---|---|---|---|
| Screeding | Immediately after pour | Screed board | Level with forms |
| Bull floating | Immediately after screed | Bull float | Smooth, push down aggregate |
| Wait | 20-60 minutes | — | Bleed water evaporates |
| Edging | After bleed water gone | Edger | Round edges |
| Jointing | After edging | Groover | Create control joints |
| Floating | When surface firms | Hand float | Prepare for final finish |
| Final finish | When surface is firm | Broom/trowel | Texture or smooth |
The critical insight: You're not following a clock—you're following the concrete. Temperature, humidity, and wind all affect timing.
Stage 1: Screeding
Screeding levels concrete flush with your forms immediately after pouring.
Technique
- Use a straight 2×4 (or metal screed) that spans both form edges
- Rest board on forms with slight downward pressure
- Pull toward you using a sawing motion (side to side as you pull)
- Fill any low spots and re-screed
- Work in sections if the slab is large
Tips
- Two people make screeding easier (one on each end)
- Keep the board wet to prevent sticking
- Don't push concrete forward—you'll create an uneven buildup
- Multiple passes are fine; perfection isn't required yet
Stage 2: Bull Floating
Bull floating closes the surface and brings cement paste (the "cream") to the top.
Technique
- Extend bull float across the slab with handle
- Push away from you with leading edge raised slightly (15°)
- Pull back toward you with float flat
- Overlap passes by half the float width
- Work perpendicular to your screeding direction
Tips
- Keep movements smooth and consistent
- Don't press too hard—let the float ride the surface
- For large slabs, use a magnesium float (lighter, less sticky)
- Complete within 10-15 minutes of screeding
Stage 3: The Critical Wait
This is where most DIYers fail. After bull floating, water rises to the surface (bleed water). You must wait for it to disappear completely.
Signs Bleed Water Is Gone
| Still wet (wait) | Ready to proceed |
|---|---|
| Surface looks shiny | Surface looks matte/dull |
| Water visible in low spots | No standing water anywhere |
| Footprint fills with water | Footprint stays dry |
| Surface feels slick | Surface feels tacky |
How Long?
| Conditions | Typical Wait |
|---|---|
| Cool, humid | 45-60 minutes |
| Moderate | 30-45 minutes |
| Hot, dry, windy | 15-25 minutes |
What happens if you don't wait: Finishing over bleed water traps moisture below the surface. This creates a weak layer that scales, flakes, and dusts within months.
Stage 4: Edging
Edging creates rounded edges that resist chipping and damage.
Technique
- Run edger along the form edge with slight pressure
- Keep tool flat against the surface
- Work in one direction, then smooth return passes
- Create a consistent 1/4" to 1/2" radius
Tips
- Work back and forth until edge is smooth
- Clean tool frequently if concrete builds up
- Rounded edges are especially important for driveways (tire impact)
Stage 5: Jointing (Control Joints)
Control joints create weak points where concrete cracks predictably instead of randomly.
Technique
- Mark joint locations (every 8-10 feet, or per plan)
- Use a straightedge as a guide
- Run groover along the guide with firm pressure
- Depth should be 1/4 of slab thickness (1" for 4" slab)
- Smooth edges after cutting
Joint Spacing Rules
| Slab thickness | Maximum spacing |
|---|---|
| 4 inches | 8-10 feet |
| 5 inches | 10-12 feet |
| 6 inches | 12-15 feet |
Stage 6: Hand Floating
Hand floating further smooths the surface and prepares for final finishing.
Timing Test
Press your finger into the surface. If it leaves a 1/4" impression without water coming up, it's time to float.
Technique
- Work on kneeboards to distribute your weight
- Move float in sweeping arcs
- Keep float flat—don't dig in edges
- Work backward toward your exit point
Stage 7: Final Finish
The final finish determines appearance and texture.
Broom Finish (Recommended for Beginners)
The easiest finish, providing good traction for outdoor surfaces.
Technique:
- Wait until surface water has disappeared and concrete is firm
- Drag a stiff-bristled broom across the surface
- Pull in one direction (perpendicular to traffic)
- Keep consistent pressure for even texture
- Clean broom between passes if buildup occurs
Best for: Driveways, sidewalks, patios, pool decks—anywhere slip resistance matters.
Trowel Finish (Smooth)
Creates a dense, smooth surface. More difficult to master.
Technique:
- Wait longer than for broom finish (surface should be quite firm)
- Use steel trowel with blade flat to surface
- Work in overlapping arcs
- Multiple passes, increasing pressure slightly each time
- Final pass should "ring" as steel glides over hardened surface
Best for: Garage floors, interior slabs, surfaces that will be covered.
Warning: Smooth finishes can be slippery when wet—not ideal for exterior use.
Decorative Finishes
Stamped, exposed aggregate, and other decorative finishes require specialized timing and techniques. See our stamped concrete guide for more on decorative options.
Common Finishing Mistakes
Finishing Too Early
Problem: Working over bleed water traps moisture, creating a weak surface layer.
Fix: Wait until the surface is matte and footprints don't fill with water.
Finishing Too Late
Problem: Concrete becomes too hard to work. Tools leave marks but don't smooth.
Fix: Work faster, or accept the texture as-is. There's no going back.
Overworking the Surface
Problem: Excessive troweling brings too much paste to the surface, weakening it.
Fix: Limit trowel passes. Three passes is usually plenty.
Inconsistent Technique
Problem: Visible lines, waves, or uneven texture.
Fix: Maintain consistent pressure and overlap passes properly.
Fixing Finishing Problems
| Problem | Can you fix it? | How |
|---|---|---|
| Minor roughness | Yes | Sand after curing, or apply coating |
| Trowel marks | Sometimes | Re-float immediately if still workable |
| Broom lines too deep | Sometimes | Light float pass if still workable |
| Surface dusting | After curing | Apply hardener/densifier |
| Major defects | Usually not | May require grinding or overlay |
Frequently Asked Questions
When should I start finishing concrete?
Begin screeding and bull floating immediately after pouring. Then wait for bleed water to evaporate completely before any hand finishing. The wait can be 20-60 minutes depending on conditions—watch the concrete, not the clock.
What's the difference between floating and troweling?
Floating (with wood or magnesium float) opens the surface and prepares it for finishing. Troweling (with steel trowel) closes and densifies the surface for a smooth finish. Floating comes first; troweling is optional based on desired finish.
Why is my concrete finish rough or uneven?
Usually one of three causes: finishing too early (over bleed water), inconsistent technique, or letting concrete get too hard before finishing. Surface prep and timing are 80% of a good finish.
Can I fix a bad concrete finish?
Minor issues can sometimes be addressed with grinding, coating, or overlay products after curing. Major problems are difficult to fix—prevention through proper timing and technique is far easier than correction.
Key Takeaways
- Follow the sequence: Screed → Bull float → Wait → Edge → Joint → Float → Finish
- Wait for bleed water—this is the #1 mistake DIYers make
- Watch the concrete, not the clock—conditions vary
- Broom finish is easiest and best for exterior surfaces
- You can't undo finishing mistakes easily—get the timing right
After finishing, your concrete needs proper curing. See how long concrete takes to cure and consider sealing your concrete for long-term protection.