How to Pour Concrete (Complete DIY Guide)

Pouring concrete is the moment everything comes together—or falls apart. The actual pour is surprisingly fast (30-90 minutes for most residential projects), but it's unforgiving. Once concrete starts setting, you can't pause, restart, or fix major mistakes. Success depends entirely on preparation and coordination.

This guide walks you through the pour itself: technique, timing, and the critical coordination that separates smooth pours from disasters. If you haven't already completed site prep, forms, and reinforcement, handle those first—then come back here.

Before You Pour: The Pre-Pour Checklist

Don't mix a single bag or schedule a truck until everything is ready:

Site Preparation

• ☐ Excavation complete to proper depth
• ☐ Gravel base compacted (4-6 inches)
• ☐ Forms set, level, and staked firmly
• ☐ Forms oiled or release agent applied
• ☐ Reinforcement in place on chairs (mid-depth)
• ☐ Subgrade dampened (prevents water absorption)

Materials and Tools Ready

• ☐ Concrete calculated and ordered (use our calculator)
• ☐ Wheelbarrows (2+ for any project over 50 sqft)
• ☐ Shovels and concrete rakes
• ☐ Screed board (straight 2×4 spanning forms)
• ☐ Bull float with handle
• ☐ Edger and groover
• ☐ Finishing tools (hand float, broom)

Crew Assembled

• ☐ Minimum 2-3 people for small pours (<100 sqft)
• ☐ 4-6 people for larger pours (100-300 sqft)
• ☐ Everyone knows their role before starting
• ☐ Water and breaks planned (it's hard work)

Understanding Working Time

Concrete doesn't wait. Once water hits cement, the clock starts.

Temperature	Working Time
Below 50°F	90-120 minutes
50-70°F	60-90 minutes
70-85°F	45-60 minutes
Above 85°F	30-45 minutes

Working time is how long you have to pour, spread, screed, and begin floating before concrete becomes unworkable. Hot weather, wind, and direct sun all accelerate setting.

Ready-mix trucks add pressure: most companies charge waiting fees after 5-7 minutes per yard. A 3-yard pour should be off the truck in 15-20 minutes.

The Pour: Step-by-Step

Step 1: Final Prep (15 minutes before)

• Dampen the subgrade and forms lightly (not pooling water)
• Verify all tools are staged within reach
• Confirm crew positions and assignments
• Clear the path from truck/mixer to forms

Step 2: Start in the Far Corner

Begin pouring at the point farthest from your exit. Work backward toward the access point so you're not trapped behind wet concrete.

For ready-mix: Direct the chute to the far corner. Move it systematically as you fill.

For bagged concrete: Dump mixed batches in the far corner first.

Step 3: Spread to Approximate Height

As concrete flows in:

• Spread with shovels or concrete rakes
• Fill to slightly above form height (1/2 inch or so)
• Work quickly but don't rush—air pockets are worse than taking an extra minute
• Push concrete into corners and against forms

Don't overwork it. Moving concrete around too much causes aggregate to separate from the paste. Spread it, don't knead it.

Step 4: Screed Immediately

Screeding levels the concrete flush with form tops.

Technique:

1. Rest the screed board on both form edges
2. Pull toward you with a sawing back-and-forth motion
3. Keep slight pressure downward
4. Fill low spots and re-screed as needed

Two people make screeding much easier—one on each end of the board.

Step 5: Bull Float

Immediately after screeding, run a bull float across the surface:

• Push away from you with the leading edge slightly raised
• Pull back with the float flat
• Overlap passes by half the float width
• Work perpendicular to the screed direction

Bull floating pushes aggregate down and brings "cream" (cement paste) to the surface, preparing for finishing.

Step 6: Wait for Bleed Water

This is the critical pause. After bull floating, water will rise to the surface (bleed water). You must wait for it to evaporate before any finishing.

Signs bleed water is gone:

• Surface changes from shiny to matte
• No visible water sheen
• Footprint leaves 1/4" impression without water coming up

Never finish over bleed water. Working wet concrete traps water below the surface, creating a weak layer that will scale and flake.

Step 7: Continue to Finishing

Once bleed water disappears, proceed to edging, jointing, and final finishing. See our guide to finishing concrete for detailed techniques.

Timing Summary

Stage	When	Duration
Pour and spread	Immediately	10-30 min
Screed	Immediately after spreading	5-15 min
Bull float	Immediately after screed	5-10 min
Wait for bleed water	After bull float	20-60 min
Edging and jointing	When bleed water gone	10-20 min
Final finish (broom)	When surface firms slightly	10-20 min

Pouring Bagged Concrete vs. Ready-Mix

Bagged Concrete

Best for: Projects under 1 cubic yard (45 bags of 80-lb mix)

Process:

1. Mix batches in wheelbarrow or mixer
2. Pour one batch, spread, pour next
3. Work in sections, blending edges
4. Keep batches consistent (same water ratio)

Challenge: Keeping pace. You need to mix fast enough that previous batches don't set before you're done.

For mixing instructions, see how to mix concrete.

Ready-Mix Delivery

Best for: Projects over 1 cubic yard

Process:

1. Truck arrives, positions chute
2. Direct driver where to pour
3. Truck pours at ~1 yard per minute
4. Your crew spreads as it pours

Challenge: Speed. You need enough people to spread and screed as fast as the truck pours.

Common Pouring Mistakes

Starting Without Enough Help

One person cannot pour, spread, screed, and float fast enough. Concrete doesn't wait for you to catch up.

Solution: Recruit helpers. Pay them in pizza and beer.

Adding Water to "Help" Concrete Flow

When concrete seems stiff, the temptation is to add water. Don't.

Why it's bad: Extra water weakens concrete permanently. A 4,000 PSI mix becomes 3,000 PSI or less.

Solution: If ready-mix seems stiff, the driver can add plasticizer (not water) to improve flow.

Pouring Too Much at Once

Trying to pour the entire slab before screeding any of it leaves you fighting setting concrete.

Solution: Pour, spread, and screed in sections, especially for large pours.

Ignoring the Weather

Hot, windy, sunny days accelerate setting dramatically. What should take 60 minutes might take 30.

Solution: Pour early morning in hot weather. Set up shade if possible. Have more help than you think you need.

Skipping the Bleed Water Wait

Finishing over bleed water is the #1 cause of surface problems.

Solution: Be patient. The wait varies—watch the concrete, not your watch.

When You Need Professional Help

Some pours are beyond DIY scope. Consider hiring a contractor if:

• Volume exceeds 3-4 yards (too much for small crews to handle)
• Complex shapes with curves or multiple levels
• Decorative finishes requiring specialized timing
• Sloped sites where concrete flows unpredictably
• You can't get enough helpers (seriously, this matters)

There's no shame in recognizing limits. A failed DIY pour costs more than hiring pros would have.

After the Pour

Once finishing is complete:

1. Begin curing immediately (see curing guide)
2. Cover with plastic or apply curing compound
3. Keep moist for 7 days minimum
4. Remove forms at 24-48 hours
5. No foot traffic for 24-48 hours
6. No vehicles for 28 days

Frequently Asked Questions

How long do I have to pour concrete before it sets?

Working time ranges from 30-90 minutes depending on temperature. In ideal conditions (50-70°F), you have about 60-90 minutes to pour, spread, screed, and begin floating. Hot weather, wind, and sun can cut this to 30-45 minutes.

Can one person pour a concrete slab?

Technically possible for very small projects (under 25 sqft), but not recommended. Concrete work requires simultaneous tasks—someone pours while someone else spreads and screeds. Even small patios benefit from 2-3 people.

What happens if I pour concrete too fast?

Pouring faster than your crew can spread and screed creates problems. Concrete at the starting point begins setting while you're still spreading elsewhere, leading to cold joints, uneven surfaces, and difficulty finishing.

Do I need to vibrate concrete?

For most residential slabs, no. Vibrating removes air pockets and consolidates concrete, but it's mainly needed for structural work, tall forms, or heavily reinforced sections. Proper spreading and light tamping is sufficient for patios, sidewalks, and driveways.

Key Takeaways

• Prepare everything before starting—you can't pause once concrete arrives
• Recruit enough help (2-3 minimum, 4-6 for larger pours)
• Start in the far corner and work toward your exit
• Screed immediately after spreading
• Wait for bleed water to disappear before finishing
• Watch the weather—hot and windy conditions cut working time dramatically

Ready to calculate your concrete needs? Use our concrete calculator or slab calculator to determine exactly how much you'll need.