How to Build Concrete Forms (DIY Guide)

Forms are the mold that shapes your concrete. Get them right, and the pour is straightforward. Get them wrong, and you'll fight problems from start to finish—bulging forms, uneven thickness, improper drainage, or concrete that leaks underneath.

Last updated: February 3, 2026

How to Build Concrete Forms (DIY Guide)

Forms are the mold that shapes your concrete. Get them right, and the pour is straightforward. Get them wrong, and you'll fight problems from start to finish—bulging forms, uneven thickness, improper drainage, or concrete that leaks underneath.

Building good forms isn't difficult, but it requires precision. Take your time here. Forms define every dimension of your finished slab, and unlike the pour itself, you have time to check and recheck before committing.

What Forms Do

Forms serve three critical functions:

  1. Contain wet concrete until it sets
  2. Shape the edges and determine dimensions
  3. Define thickness and slope

When you remove the forms (typically 24-48 hours after pouring), the concrete edges will exactly match the form boards. Any bows, dips, or misalignments transfer directly to the finished slab.

Form Materials

Standard Lumber Forms

Most residential projects use dimensional lumber:

Slab ThicknessForm BoardNotes
4 inches2×4 (3.5" actual)Works—slight crown acceptable
4 inches2×6, rippedBest for exact 4" thickness
5 inches2×6 (5.5" actual)Ideal match
6 inches2×6 or 2×82×6 with base excavation works

Choose straight lumber. Sight down each board before buying—warped forms mean wavy edges.

Alternative Form Materials

MaterialBest ForCost
Plywood (3/4")Curved forms, tall wallsHigher
Metal formsReusable, professionalRental
Flexible form boardCurves, landscape bordersModerate
Fiber form tubesFootings, columnsPer-piece

Stakes

  • Wood stakes: 1×2, 2×2, or 1×4, 18-24" long
  • Steel stakes: Reusable, stronger, easier to drive
  • Spacing: Every 2-4 feet along form boards

Layout and Squaring

Step 1: Mark the Corners

Drive stakes at each corner position. Measure diagonals to verify square.

3-4-5 Triangle Method:

  1. From a corner, measure 3 feet along one side
  2. Measure 4 feet along the perpendicular side
  3. The diagonal between those points should be exactly 5 feet
  4. If not, adjust until it is

For larger slabs, use 6-8-10 or 9-12-15 (multiples of 3-4-5).

Step 2: String Lines

Run string between corner stakes to visualize form positions. This helps identify:

  • Uneven ground requiring excavation
  • Grade changes
  • Any obstacles

Step 3: Set Reference Height

Establish your finished slab height at one corner (typically the highest point). All other measurements work from this reference.

Setting Forms: Step-by-Step

Step 1: Position First Form Board

  1. Set board along string line
  2. Check height matches reference
  3. Drive stake at one end
  4. Level board, then stake other end
  5. Add intermediate stakes every 2-4 feet

Step 2: Set Perpendicular Board

  1. Position second board at 90° to first
  2. Verify square with 3-4-5 method
  3. Stake as above

Step 3: Complete the Perimeter

  1. Work around the perimeter
  2. Check square at each corner
  3. Verify all boards meet at proper height
  4. Double-check level/slope at each board

Step 4: Establish Slope

Most slabs need slope for drainage:

  • Minimum: 1/8" per foot
  • Recommended: 1/4" per foot
  • Direction: Away from structures

Example: For a 12-foot patio at 1/4" per foot, the far edge should be 3 inches lower than the house side.

Setting slope:

  1. Set house-side form at reference height
  2. Calculate drop: length (ft) × slope (inches/ft)
  3. Set far-side form that much lower
  4. Verify with level and measurement

Staking and Bracing

Staking Technique

  1. Drive stake 1-2 inches away from form board (outside)
  2. Position top of stake flush with or below form top
  3. Screw through stake into form board (don't nail—screws are easier to remove)
  4. Use 2-3 screws per stake

Stake Spacing

Form HeightMaximum Spacing
4 inches4 feet
6 inches3 feet
8+ inches2 feet

Closer is better at corners and anywhere forms might bow.

Kickers (Diagonal Braces)

For taller forms (6"+) or anywhere you expect pressure:

  1. Drive additional stake 18-24" behind the form
  2. Attach diagonal brace from stake to form
  3. Creates triangular bracing that resists outward pressure

Checking Your Work

Before pouring, verify everything:

Level/Slope Check

  • ☐ Check slope with level (or string line and measurements)
  • ☐ Verify slope direction (away from structures)
  • ☐ Check for low spots that will pool water

Square Check

  • ☐ Measure diagonals (should be equal for rectangles)
  • ☐ Re-verify corners with 3-4-5 method
  • ☐ Check that opposite sides are parallel and equal length

Stability Check

  • ☐ Push against forms—they shouldn't move
  • ☐ Check stake connections (screws tight)
  • ☐ Verify stakes are driven deep enough

Height Check

  • ☐ Confirm forms match planned thickness throughout
  • ☐ Check that forms are uniform height (or uniformly sloped)
  • ☐ Verify any transitions to existing concrete

Preparing Forms for the Pour

Apply Release Agent

Oil or commercial form release prevents concrete from bonding to forms:

  • Spray or brush on vegetable oil, motor oil, or commercial release
  • Apply to all surfaces that will contact concrete
  • This makes form removal much easier

Check for Gaps

Look for gaps at:

  • Corner joints (where boards meet)
  • Bottom of forms (between form and ground)
  • Stake attachment points

Fix gaps with foam backer rod, packed soil, or caulk—concrete will leak through surprisingly small openings.

Final Verification

Walk the perimeter one last time:

  • ☐ All stakes secure
  • ☐ Forms at correct height
  • ☐ Slope verified
  • ☐ Release agent applied
  • ☐ No gaps at bottom

Removing Forms

When to Remove

Concrete UseMinimum Wait
Patios, sidewalks24 hours
Driveways24-48 hours
Heavy loads48-72 hours

Removal Process

  1. Remove screws from stakes
  2. Pull stakes straight out (don't pry against fresh concrete)
  3. Gently pull form boards away from concrete
  4. Work carefully at corners (most vulnerable to chipping)

After Removal

  • Backfill soil against edges for support
  • Continue curing process (keep moist)
  • Don't stress edges until fully cured

Form Reuse

Quality form boards can be reused multiple times:

  • Remove concrete residue promptly
  • Store flat to prevent warping
  • Re-oil before each use
  • Inspect for damage before reuse

Frequently Asked Questions

What size lumber for concrete forms?

Match form board height to slab thickness: 2×4 for 4-inch slabs, 2×6 for 5-6 inch slabs. Choose the correct thickness for your project—driveways need 5-6 inches, patios need 4 inches.

How far apart should form stakes be?

Every 2-4 feet depending on form height. Use 4-foot spacing for 4-inch forms, 2-3 feet for taller forms. Add extra stakes at corners and anywhere forms might bow under pressure.

When can I remove concrete forms?

Wait at least 24 hours for standard residential slabs. For driveways or heavy-use areas, wait 48 hours. The concrete should be hard enough that form removal doesn't damage the edges.

Can I reuse concrete form boards?

Yes—quality lumber can be reused multiple times. Clean off concrete promptly, store flat to prevent warping, and apply release agent before each use. Steel forms last indefinitely with proper care.

Key Takeaways

  • Forms define your slab—take time to get them right
  • Use straight lumber and check for warping before buying
  • Square is critical—use the 3-4-5 method at every corner
  • Stake every 2-4 feet and add bracing for taller forms
  • Apply release agent for easy form removal
  • Check everything twice before pouring—you can't adjust after

Once your forms are set, you're ready for reinforcement and the pour. Use our slab calculator to determine exactly how much concrete to order, and review how to pour concrete for the next steps.

Frequently Asked Questions